Sleeves cutting and Drafting
Introduction to ladies Sleeves must be accurately cut, set and fitted if they are to be comfortable in wear. They should be cut on proper fabric grains and care must be taken to fit them in such a way that arm can move quite easily.
1 to 5 Sleeve Fashions (from left )
1. Plain sleeve
2. Sleeve with pleats d shoulder and biceps
3. Puffed sleeve with a dart of the biceps.
4. Puffed sleeve with gathers and
5. Plain full sleeve
6 to 10. Sleeve Fashions (from left)
6. Raglan sleeve
7. Full sleeve with cuff
8. Three quarter sleeve loose below elbow
9. Magyar sleeve formed by front and back yokes and
10. Half sleeve with cuff.
Three Basic Sleeves
Sleeves may be cut in many ways, styles and fashions, but they are mainly classified in to following three basic types.
1. Set in sleeves
2. Raglan sleeves
3. Kimono sleeves
1. Set-in Sleeves:
This sleeve fits into a circular armhole with the crown of the sleeve fitting to the armhole end of the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam joining the side seam of the bodice at the underarm. Plain, Puff circular petal , three quarter. Full sleeves etc. fall into this category. In set-in sleeves, the sleeve crown or cap must be at least 2.5 to 4 cm ( 1 to 1 ½ inch ) more than the armhole, so that it may be eased into the armhole and fits smoothly over the rounded shape of the top of arm ( i.e near shoulder).2. Raglan sleeves:
This sleeve joins the bodice with slightly curved seam, running diagonally from the underarm front and back in to neckline. This shape of sleeve often provides an easy, comfortable setting for people who have difficult shoulders for fitting with set-in sleeves.3. Kimono (or Magyar ) Sleeves:
This is cut in one with the bodice when it is short, it usually requires re-enforcement at underarm, but when long, a gusset is required for comfortable movement.We are giving here the drafting method of only set-in sleeves. Raglan and kimono sleeves are discussed in raglan blouse and skirt blouse respectively, sleeve for gents garments discussed separately.
